We woke up at 7:30am after a great night's sleep. The pillows were perfectly pillowy.

It was a lovely day with clear blue skies. The sunrise was just kissing the tip of the Matterhorn. It was such a breathtaking view, we didn't rush down for breakfast.

Not before we phoned home and sang "Happy Birthday" to Ada who was 3 years old today.

Eventually we of course got hungry and headed down for the buffet. There was ample choices, from the usual selection of cheeses and sliced meats, to more Alpine fayre like a large bowl of bircher muesli, perfectly soaked overnight, with plenty of fruit topping options.

Bacon and sausages for the full English and tomato and mozzarella for the full Italian. Fresh orange juice, squeezed by your very own hands. They even had two types of boiled eggs, a 3 minute boil and a 5 minute boil!

I ate everything I possibly could, even requesting an omelette from the egg chef.

We had a plan for today but no schedule to keep. We let the day develop at its own pace.

After our breakfast had worked its way through we walked down to the Gornergrat Bahn the train station, more or less opposite the main train station. From here the train climbs along a rack and pinnion track to become the highest "open-air" railway in Europe.

Our plan was to spend the day on the slopes, but hiking not skiing.

Having already prepaid for our tickets all we needed to do was to exchange our barcode booking confirmation into actual tickets but when we stood at the ticket machine I kept on getting an invalid error message.

Luckily there was a short queue at the counter to speak to a real person. She said "It's ok, just show your barcode to the person at the barrier". We did as instructed but the guy at the barrier shook his head in disbelief when we told him we were told to just wave the barcode at him.

I'm sure he called her stupid or some other insult, under his breath.

He kindly took us back to the counter and arranged for actual tickets. Then, back at the barrier, we pressed the tickets to the sensor on the side and the green light flashed. We were in!

Whilst we waited for the next train we noticed they had segregated waiting rooms, one for people dressed in their finest ski wear, lumbering their own equipment along with them and one for those who were not.    

 A train left every 20 minutes so we didn't have long to wait for the next one to arrive.

We set off on our journey, stopping once again in Zermatt at a smaller station, before rising, slowly at first, above the rooftops, crossing the Findelbach river. All the while we could see the Matterhorn.

From there the gradient increased dramatically as we climbed up the side of the mountain towards the Riffelhorn, a peak along the Gorner ridge. The train stopped at Findelbach, Riffelalp and Riffelberg and then Rotenboden before our final stop.

There was an alternative way up and that was by series of cable car and chairlifts from Zermatt, to Furi, to Riffelberg and then Gifthittli. Julie would never had entertained the thought of using the skiiers preferred mode of transport.  Taking the train the whole way was far more civilised.

After a 40 minute ride we arrived at Gornergrat train station. Most passengers headed straight for the slopes but we just stood there in awe of our surroundings.

Despite being busy with people there was a hush about the place.  I think everyone was struck by the beauty of the scenery.

We stood there gazing at the Matterhorn, absorbing the energy. The air was fresh and clear, the sun was warm on our faces. We were filled with a sense of contentment and wonder.

Gornergrat train station had to be in the most impressive location in all of the Alps. The honour of being the highest in Europe goes to Jungfraujoch but its final third is in a tunnel. No contest really. 

Set above the train station was a building looking like a villain's lair from a Bond film.

The 3100-Klumhotel was part hotel, part observatory housing an astronomical research station in its own "Stellarium". We knew it also had a cafe so we thought it would be a good idea to fuel up before our hike back down to Zermatt.

They had two dining options, an upscale restaurant or a more affordable cafeteria.

Ever the budget concious we chose the canteen, picking up a tray and shuffling along.

We decided to share a great looking cheese baguette and a cherry crumble cake. The bill came to over 25 swiss francs which was expensive. What shocked us the most was 6 swiss francs for a diet coke!

I mean, there was no effort for them to produce it, just open the crate and put it in the fridge. The baguette, the cake, even the coffee I could understand the inflated prices but a regular bottle of diet coke costing £4.50 !?!?!? Day light robbery!

We didn't spend long inside. I was wearing my thermals and begining to get a bit warm and sweaty.  

 After lunch we stood outside on the terrace for a while taking it all in. It was difficult to believe we were at an altitude of 3100m. To put into perspective Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) Wales' highest peak measures 1089m. We were three times as high! 

The Matterhorn may have stolen the limelight but in the other direction we overlooked the Gorner glacier and a series of mountain peaks along the Monte Rosa massif, culminating in Dufourspitze, highest peak in Switzerland.

Before leaving we put on our Yaktrax (grippers) onto our boots. We wore them in Grindelwald and they really helped with walking on slippery surfaces. Striding with confidence, we both set out for our hike down to Zermatt.

But first we stopped to take a few photos of ourselves with the Matterhorn as the dramatic backdrop. It was spectacular.

We were about to start the hike down when we saw a train work its way up the tracks. Great minds thought alike as we quickly decided simultaneously to catch it back to Rotenboden rather than walk all the way from Gornergrat, cutting about half an hour from our hike.

When we got off at Rotenboden there were signs for the Wanderweg (hiking trail) down to Riffelberg. The Riffelseeweg, (what the path was known as) descended steeply at first into the valley.

Our Yaktrax gave us the confidence to walk even if they were in small stunted steps. It soon then levelled out as we conitnued walking towards the Matterhorn.

We soon came across a pile of rocks, or a memorial cairn. They are called Steinmännchen in German,  and you'll find them dotted around the mountains. I don't know if this one was a tribute to a particular fallen climber or just one that had grown organically as climbers added stones in honour of those who have perished.

It could also simply have been a way marker for the path. To be fair the hiking trail was freshly scraped clear. It was quite obvious which way to walk, an important point because there was a lake out there somewhere! 

The Riffelsee was a popular attraction in the Summer months when on a still day you can picture the Matterhorn reflected in its mirror-like waters. Today it must have frozen over and then covered with a layer of snow. So it was important to stay to the path!

Once we reached the brow of a hill we turned around to see from where we had walked. High on the left was the summit of Gornergrat with the 3100-Klumhotel. I couldn't find a name for the mountain on the right, it's referred only as part of the Monte Rosa massif.

They were seperated by a deep valley where the once mighty Gorner glacier had once cut its way through. Apparently the effect of climate change has been dramatic here with the glacier receeding over 2km since 1859.

From this location, in the shadow of the Riffelhorn, I thought I could make out the Riffelsee, an uniform flat area in the middle. 

At this point we really felt the cold. It was surprising how warm the sun was and how noticable was its absence.

We marched onwards, drawn by the beautiful pristine scenery. We were walking in a winter wonderland and it was truly magical.

Along the way I remembered an interesting fact. A quarter of the Matterhorn was actually in Italy. The two sides we could see from our trail, the East facing and North facing were in Switzerland, as was the Western side. But the South facing was over the border.

It even has a different name in Italian, where it's called Cervino.

The Italian/Swiss border ran along the ridges connecting the chain of peaks, sharing the glory of  the Pennine Alps between the two countries.

The wanderweg continued along a wide cleared path. It was the perfect winter hike. The snow made for level ground which meant we didn't have to focus too much on where we placed our feet. I've seen images of it in summer and the stoney path is full of trip hazards. You could easily twist an ankle if you weren't concentrating.

On this stretch of the trail we could appreciate the chain of peaks of Dente Blanche, Ober Gabelhorn,  Zinalrothorn and Weisshorn to name but a few.

Hurrying past us was a family, with two teenagers larking about, taking short-cuts into the deep snow. They had this beautiful black and white dog, similar to a tall large Spaniel that reminded us of so much of Sylvester, our Border Collie cross Springer Spaniel. 

Naturally we connected with them and asked "What breed is he?"

"He's a Dutch cross breed" they said "a Stabijhoun and a Wetterhoun", a Pointer and a Water Dog, both Friesian.

If we ever have another dog after Sylvester it will be the Stabyhoun!

After twenty minutes of marching in the snow the path changed course, turning North. We were now looking straight down the Mattertal valley. Zermatt was down there somewhere.

In the foreground were a collection of buildings which constituted Riffelberg.

The first building in Riffelberg we came across was a tiny modern-built church called the Kapelle Bruder Klaus. Its patron saint was St Nicholas of Flüe, the same saint celebrated in St. Niklaus in the Mattertal Valley. Of course Niklaus shortens to Klaus.

Consecrated in 1961, apparently the roof was built to mimic the shape of the Weisshorn in the background.

We paused here to admire the view down the Mattertal valley.  I could see the village of Täsch and then Randa beyond it but Zermatt was hidden from view. 

I was drawn to the impressive pyramidal peak in the centre of the ridge closing off the valley but I couldn't identify it. Was it Bietschorn, the other side of the Rhone valley in the Bernese Alps?

The largest building by far in Riffelberg was the Buffet & Bar. It looked a very popular après-ski spot. Reaching it however was possibly the greatest challenge of our hike!

We navigatged a steep slope. "Trust your yaktrax" I told Julie as the ice-grips were doing their job. We shuffled down sideways, as if we were wearing skiis, holding hands, supporting each other. Then, taking little baby steps, we walked past children having lessons on the nursery slope. We felt ridiculous!

Relieved, we arrived at the Riffelberg Buffet and Bar. It provided exactly what is said on the tin, a buffet and a bar.

Sat outside in the glorious sunshine, surrounded by chic skiiers with all their gear, we couldn't exactly call this our après-ski, so we came up with après-wanderweg for our well deserved post-hike drink. 

I went inside to get our drinks but came out with a tomato soup!

It smelt so nice, I couldn't resist it.

There was no rush for us to move on, so I went in again for a drink, this time actually getting a bottle of lager but also a large bowl of pomme frittes.

From Riffelberg was another hiking trail, called the Mark Twain Weg, that connected Riffelberg with Riffelalp.

The American author wrote a book called "A Tramp Abroad" in which there's a chapter  called "A Trip to Mt. Rigi" where he decribes his 3-day trek to the peak of the "queen of mounains". (Although Mount Rigi is miles away near Lucerne?)

Anyway, regardless of the source of its name, it's considered a challenging hike, so not wanting to ruin the experience we decided to catch the train down to Zermatt.

Unlike the train this morning, which was full to the rafters, this one was empty. We had the carriage to ourselves. Julie sat on one end, looking at the view fown the Mattertal valley as we decended steeply towards Riffelalp.

I sat the other side, not because I could continue to see the Matterhorn but in anticipation of descending over Zermatt.

It wasn't long before I could see the snowy rooftops of the town. With it all laid before me I was surprised to see how compact this world renowned destination was.

Unfortunately, the closer we got, the view got increasingly obscured by trees. Every now and then we would get a clear glimpse, which was a cause for excitement. Especially when I caught sight of the Gothic bell tower of the Pfarrkirche St. Mauritius, the church of this parish.

In the next window if opportunity between the trees the Matterhorn came into view. It was a glorious sight.

We rolled into Gornergratbahnhoff (train station) It was only four hours ago we left which surprised us. It felt like a jolly big adventure and a long day.

Having not explored Zermatt yet, we decided to stroll through the town before it got dark. The main street was Bahnhoffstrasse, filled with cafes, bars, ski wear stores and souvenir shops.

We walked past the 5 star Mont Cervin Palace hotel, then the Brown Cow Pub 5 star Grand Hotel Zermatterhof one of Zermatt's most iconic hotel. It's been welcoming guests to the Matterhorn since 1879. That was an impressive statistic.

Its room rates were also impressive. I thought our Backstage Hotel was expensive but the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof was three times more expensive! A staggering amount of money per night.

It boasts Royalty and filmstars amongst it's clientelle, that's because you would need the deep pockets of an oliagarch to stay there! 

Right next to it was the church of St. Mauritius. Apparently there's been a church here since 1280 but the reincarnation that survives today was built around 1916.

We continued walking as far as the Gemindehaus or community centre just behind the church before turning on our heels and slowly make our way back down Bahnhoffstrasse.

We stopped a couple of times to browse the tacky souvenirs. We had no intention of buying anything.

We thought the souvenir cowbell was the most Swiss gift to buy but that was before we came to the Cuckoo Clock shop!

We were back in our room before the sunset, sitting on our balcony watchng the sky change its shade from blue to pink to red.

We spent our time trying to decide on somewhere for supper, ending up selecting Restaurant Spycher because it sounded quite traditional but also caught Julie's attention for their reputation for the flambe and rottisserie.

It wasn't far. It took us about 5 minutes to reach. When we got there Julie spotted something and said "Is that a big burger bun on the roof?"

In all seriousness, she thought the restaurant had gone all Route 66 gimmicksville but when we got closer she realised it was just a thick layer of snow. I almost fell over laughing!

We entered the restaurant, stepping behind a thick red velvet curtain. I suppose the drapes were a great draft excluder. The decor was log cabin chic and felt so cosy. We hadn't made a reservation but we were early enough not for it to matter.

They took our coats to a cloakroom and despite being almost empty, they sat us nearest the door which annoyed me a little.

They brought out their menu which was in German, French and English. I was glad to see they had a meat-free section although curiously the heading of fleishfrei was only in German.

We also wanted to order some wine but then got confused by the measurement of 3/8? Was that three-eighths of a litre or a bottle? The waiter was no help whatsoever.

I'm sure it was 375ml which was 3/8 of a litre which was also 1/2 of a bottle but we decided that 27 CHF was too expensive for however much it was and ordered water.

I opted for the Rosti Beni, shredded potato fried in butter and topped with black summer truffles and a fried egg. I'm not sure why it was called a Beni but it was a tasty combination. To be critical though the rosti itself was a bit bland.

Ironically, despite being a temple to meat lovers, Julie didn't have much choice. Most of the dishes were for a minimum of 2 to share! Being married to a vegetarian brought with it some limitations.

In the end she had the lamb which was really tasty but the accompaniment was a little sparse. Only three small potatoes and a few batons of carrot. The plate was a sorry sight.

In total it came to 87 CHF in total and we left a further 4 CHF as a tip. It was a paltry amount but it was all the cash we had. We asked for our coats so we could leave but five minutes later they hadn't attended to us So I went to collect them myself, picking up the 4 CHF tip on the way out. 

We left Spycher underwhelmed by the quality and gobsmacked at the prices. My rosti alone was 33 CHF (£25). I was so glad we hadn't paid anymore for 3/8th of a wine!

We walked back to our hotel stopping for a swift drink in front of the fire at Hotel Pollux. Julie checked the time and asked "Do you want to watch a film at our hotel's cinema?" 

Ten minutes later we were in the basement of Backstage Hotel where they a stage and cinema screen.

The lights dimmed, the chandeliers automatically moved out of the way, and the curtains opened. We were first shown a short film about the owner and architect Heinz Julen and his vision for the hotel.  It was interesting, especially learning that he actually lives on the top floor of the hotel with his family.

The main feature then began. It was "The Greatest Showman". Now I'm not one for enjoying musicals but this wasn't at all bad.

Adding an extra twist the audio was in English but we had German subtitles. We attempted to read them but it only lead to confusion.

It finished at 10:30pm. It had been a pleasant way to finish the day. 

It was time for bed.